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Pipeline

A ‘Space-Time Architecture’ for KENZO Paris
역동적인 구조물로 시공간의 초월을 보여주는 파리 패션위크 겐조 컬렉션

DOSIS | 도시스

On the morning of February 26, 2020, Felipe Baptista Oliveira presented his first autumn/winter collection as creative director of KENZO in Paris’ Ve arrondissement. The district – the Latin quarter, home to the Sorbonne University – has an illustrious past: here the Romans settled, René Descartes mused on geometry and philosophy, Pierre and Marie Curie discussed radioactivity, and the Situationists practiced la dérive. Immediately prior to the pandemic in early 2020, two young Spanish architects, Isabel Collado and Ignacio Peydro (of DOSIS, the studio they founded in 2006), were faced with the challenge of ensuring their ‘itinerant and instantaneous’ event space PIPELINE matched up to KENZO’s high expectations and the spirit of the place.

화려한 패턴과 색감, 동서양의 조화로운 무드로 유명한 패션 브랜드 겐조. 지난해 2월에 열린  파리 패션위크에서는 겐조 특유의 실험성이 빛나는 2020 FW 시즌 런웨이를 만나볼 수 있었다. FW 컬렉션은 서로 다른 문화와 지리적 특성에서 비롯된 차이를, 패션으로 넘어선다는 주제 하에 진행됐다. 여기에 유목민적 라이프스타일과 여행을 또 다른 영감의 원천으로 삼아, 어느 한 곳에 국한되지 않는 자유로운 패션을 선보인 것이다. 그리고 런웨이가 진행된 무대는 이처럼 자유로운 주제 의식을 그대로 표현하며 컬렉션의 방점을 찍었다. 

Places remain and time flows; or do they? Isabel and Ignacio have long been determined to make ‘instant cities’, inspired by those imagined by Peter Cook for Archigram. Cities that flow through space-time, moving where society needs them. As undergraduate students (of the same university that Peter Cook himself directed), the pair imagined façades that flew and moved through the city, detached from the buildings which once held them. Today the duo’s interest in making architecture focus on life and on events, rather than on style, is the constant guiding principle that defines their work. “Architecture is about life, everything else is circumstantial”, they passionately affirm.
PIPELINE is a reconfigurable ultralight pneumatic structure that is intended to instantly activate the territory. Since its construction in Paris 2020 it now ‘inhabits the world’ allowing distinct uses in scattered places.

패션쇼가 진행된 곳은 소르본 대학을 비롯한 여러 명문 학교가 자리 잡고 있는 파리 5구. 오랜 역사를 지닌 명문 학교들이 주로 라틴어를 사용했다 해서 일명 라틴 지구라 불리는 지역이다. 데카르트가 기하학과 철학을 탐구했고, 퀴리 부부가 방사능을 연구했으며, 아방가르드 예술가들이 전위적인 실험을 했던 곳. 중세 시대부터 현재까지 프랑스 최고의 지성과 예술인들의 구심점 역할을 해왔던 그야말로 유서 깊은 장소다. 이곳에 깃든 실험 정신에 부응하면서 컬렉션에 적합한 무대를 만들기 위해 실험적인 건축으로 도시에 역동성을 불어넣는 작업을 선보여왔던 스페인의 젊은 건축가 그룹 도시스가 참여했다. 
이들은 대학 시절부터 오랫동안 관심을 가져왔던 아키그램의 ‘인스턴트 도시’를 구현해 보기로 했다. 기존 도시에 새로운 소통의 공간을 중첩시킴으로써 유기적 도시를 구현하고자 했던 아키그램의 아이디어에서 영감을 받아, 도시를 관통하며 자유롭게 흐르고 움직이는 구조물을 제안한 것이다.

If the KENZO autumn/winter 2020 collection was a collection inspired by nomadism and travel, in the richness of transit, the architecture that welcomes it is essentially nomadic. It is a living structure that practices the Situationist dérive, ostensibly moving around the world without a pre-established destination. In so doing it shares this transformable quality with the KENZO autumn/winter 20 collection. As in previous DOSIS works, the structure they created is transformable, a creation which dynamically adapts to every situation and every location. It is a living structure that transmutes depending on the conditions of the ecosystem that hosts it. “
Now the world is a latent space, to receive it instantly in an indeterminate time”, the architects say of their structure.

파리의 정형화된 건물들 사이에 마치 거대한 액체가 흘러든 것 같은 역동적인 모습으로 호기심을 불러일으키는 컬렉션 무대는 모듈화된 플라스틱 초경량 구조물을 조합해 만든 ‘파이프라인’이다. ‘일시적이고 이동이 가능한’ 가변적인 형태로 겐조 2020가을/겨울 컬렉션의 유목적인 라이프 스타일을 그대로 재현해내며, 시간이나 공간에 제약 없이 전세계에 잠재적으로 지속가능한 건축을 만들어냈다. 건축가가 지향하는 삶과 사건을 중점으로 그 어떤 상황이나 장소에서도 알맞게 적용할 수 있는 이 파이프라인은 2020년 파리를 시작으로 전세계를 누비면서 도시의 유동적인 변화를 꿈꾼다.

Project: Pipeline / Location and time: Paris, February 26, 2020 / Architects: DOSIS / Project team: Isabel Collado, Ignacio Peydro, Luis Francisco Núñez, Irache Portillo, Claudia Alonso, Alberto Bandín, Beatriz Sanz / Show producer: Bureau Betak / Engineering consultants: Tristan Simmonds, Juan Lastra / Membrane manufacturing: Arquitextil – Lastra & Zorrilla / Membrane thickness: 0.65mm / Overall Membrane weight: 3.5Tn / Building area: 1,500m² / Weight – surface ratio: 2Kg 333g/m² / Air volume: 4,700m³ / Air flow: 156,000m³/h / Completion: 2020 / Photograph: ⓒimagen subliminal; Miguel de Guzmán + Rocío Romero / ⓒDCOMDRONE, Jean-Phillippe Dollet

Tags: airFranceParispipeshow


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